Your serial number is located under the bottom bracket of your frame. The serial number may also be located on your invoice/receipt or on the box the frame was shipped in. Please list all characters.
Ibis frames and complete bikes are available from retailers all over the world.
For the US and Canada, head on over to the 'find a dealer' page and enter your zip code (or allow your browser to know your location) to find your closest retailer. If there's no one close, we have several options for authorized online sellers, or we are happy to sell a bike to your favorite retailer provided there's not another Ibis dealer nearby.
For international inquiries, type in the name of your country and if we have a distributor there, their name will pop up. If you don't have a distributor in your country, feel free to call us or contact us via email at email@example.com and we'll find a way for you to swing your leg over an Ibis.
Note that we do not sell our bikes directly to consumers. We sell through retailers only.
We normally sell our demo bikes to employees of the shops that sell our bikes. Shop guys are chronically underpaid, and it's a way for us to say thank you to the guys who keep us in business.
Sometimes the dealers sell their demo bikes, so it might make sense to check with your local dealer to see what they have available.
Yes! We offer an in house factory demo program. All demos require 48 hour notice for a reservation. We do not accept walk ins. For more info on pricing, availability, and scheduling, please click here.
If you're not familiar with the trails around Santa Cruz and would like a guide, we suggest our friends over at The Ride Guides.
You can buy complete linkages on our store here.
You can buy Ripley bearing kits here.
We don’t carry bearings for the links on our other bikes, but you can find The enduro bearing kits for all of our suspension bikes here:
Select the box on the left that says Ibis, scroll to the bottom and hit 'Apply Filters', then your choices for bearing kits will fill to the right.
Note that we don't provide guidance on how to remove and replace the bearings, but in our instruction book, you can learn how to remove the swingarm and links.
2 x 17mm open cone wrenches.
1 x 12mm allen wrench.
242 or 243 blue Loctite.
3 in 1 oil or a very light weight hub grease/oil.
Start by using the two 17mm open cone wrenches on the flats of the end caps of both the drive side (right) and non drive side (left) of the rear hub and twist counter clockwise.
If the drive side (right) end cap comes off first, you are all set to pull the free hub body/cassette off, if not insert the 12mm allen key into the non drive side(left) with one 17mm open cone wrench on the drive side (right) and the drive side end cap should come off.
Pull the free hub body/cassette off and clean/inspect the pawls/drive ring. Check to ensure the thin spacer is on the inner hub shell bearing.
If everything looks good, apply a liberal amount of 3 in 1 oil or your choice of light weight hub grease to the drive ring/free hub body interface, install the thin washer (if it is not already in the hubshell), and reinstall the free hub body. Apply a small amount of 242 or 243 Blue Loctite to the threaded portion of the end caps and/or shaft and tighten down till snug.
If you have any question on the condition of the pawls/drive ring please send a photo via email to warranty@Ibiscycles.com
No. The leverage ratio on the Ripmo is not coil-compatible.
No. The leverage ratio on the Ripley is not coil-compatible.
The leverage ratio is good for a coil on an HD4. It is always progressive, though it flattens towards the end of the stroke. This means that the wheel rate is progressive, even with a linear shock like a coil spring.
In our rides testing the shocks from Cane Creek, and EXT have withstood our abuse. The Fox is a definite no-go!
It is normal to feel some friction, especially at top out and bottom out without a shock on as that is outside usable range. Having a rear wheel in the frame will also assist pulling down the swingarm.
A few ounces of force to move it is good (at the wheel). It should come close to falling back down on its own or maybe even come back down under the force of gravity, no more than a light push.
The confounding thing is that the ends of the range which are actually outside the usable travel that the shock allows create a binding sensation, so when the swingarm is fully open with no shock attached, it's normal to have high friction from the suspension being bound up on it's own conflicting arcs. Same at the top out position, past where it would normally be.
The leverage rate between what the rider feels and the bushing friction is about 60:1, so you won't ever feel that friction even if you can feel it with the shock off.
If it's hard to move through the central part of the travel, then we should take a look at it and see what's wrong. They are supposed to move freely. In that case, let us know and we'll help make it right.
While it's tempting to give the bike as much versatility as possible, looking at real world conditions, there would be compromises that we are not willing to take if we also made the DV9 a 27.5” bike.
The main problem is bottom bracket height. Too high and the bike is unwieldy and difficult to maneuver. Too low and you're going to get a lot of pedal strikes. Finding the BB sweet spot is a key to a good handling bike.
Let's take a look at the diameter of a few typical wheel/tire combinations:
27.5x2.8 Nobby Nic: 712mm
29x2.25 Racing Ralph: 730mm
29x2.6 Nobby Nic: 746mm
To measure the bottom bracket height difference between these setups, you use the radius, or half of that diameter measurement.
At first glance, it looks like the difference between the 29" x 2.25" Racing Ralph and the 27.5" x 2.8" Nobby Nic is minimal, half of the 730mm - 712mm, or 9mm.
There's a catch though! Dropping the bike by 9mm doesn't sound bad but those numbers don't account for tire sag. One of the big benefits of the higher volume tires is that you can run them at low pressures, which gives you gobs of traction. With these lower pressures, once your weight is on the bike the 2.8's will drop a lot further than the smaller 2.25's that need to be run at higher pressure to avoid flatting. That will make the bike even lower than the numbers indicate.
Similarly, the bigger 29x2.6 tires will drop further than the 2.25s putting the bottom bracket into a similar range so the bottom bracket doesn't feel as high as the static measurement of the geometry chart indicates.
Ripmo, DV9 and Ripley: 2.6”
HD4 and Mojo 3: 2.8”
Hakka MX: 700 x 40C or 27.5 x 2.1”
Click here to view our current and archived Setup Guides.
Ripley 4: 34t
Ripley 3: 32t
Hakka: Single rings max is 48T, minimum is 34T
The double chainring sizes that the Hakka are designed for are:
Note that on the Hakka, the 34t inner ring on the 50/34 is the smallest it's designed for, and any smaller than that may cause chain contact on the underside of the chainstay.
We have found that different oval chainring manufacturers state that the max radius is 2t more than the stated chainring size (in other words, you can put a 32t oval on a bike with a 34t max chainring size), but in reality we have found that this can be greater than 2t, so the clearance with the frame may be an issue with some oval rings.
You can order any of our available lengths, which are
- Sml - 40mm
- Med/LG/XL - 50mm
- Sml - 50mm
- Med/Lg - 60mm
- XL - 70mm
- 49cm - 80 or 90mm
- 53cm/55cm - 100mm
- 58cm/61cm - 110mm
That’s a good question for your local bike shop when you go in to check out a bike. We also have a size chart at the bottom of the geometry section of each individual bike page. You can see the bike pages here. Click on the bike image, then geometry and scroll down just a touch.
- Remove the ports on both sides.
- Put a slight down bend on the housing and grease the end.
- Insert the housing through the port on the BB. It should slide right in, but you may need to give it twist to get the housing started.
- Use a pick to get the housing out of the port near the derailleur hanger.
- Make sure to slide the port back on the BB side and the hanger side.
- The bike came with a noodle (in the bag of stuff), you’ll need that.
- Feed a shift wire (an old one) through the noodle so the the cable nub is stuck in the open end (where housing would fit in)
- Feed the bare end of the cable through the cable stop from the inside so that it exits out the frame along the seat tube. This is the trickiest part, it helps to put a little kink in the end of the cable
- Pull the cable all the way out the port so that it is pulling the cable noodle into the cable stop. Use a fourth hand tool to pull on the cable and massage the noodle so that it is firmly placed in the cable stop (should be a snug fit). Once it is in place in the cable stop, leave it there!
- Once the noodle is in the cable stop, remove the cable and route your cable housing from the front shifter to the noodle (internal to the down tube). The end of the noodle should be accessible from the bolt-on door underneath the down tube.
- Feed your shift cable from the shifter, through your housing, into the noodle, and out to the front derailleur. If the cable catches on the cable stop upon exiting the noodle, it may help to add a kink to the end of the cable.
Here's what each wire length is intended to connect:
1200mm: Connects A junction box (at stem) to B junction box (inside down tube)
900mm: Connects B junction box to rear derailleur (routes through right chainstay)
2x400mm: connects right and left shifters to A junction box. The left shifter is not necessary, but we include it anyway in case someone wants right-up/left-down type shifting
350mm: Connects battery (zip-tied to down tube battery door) to B junction box.
Try to attach the B junction box to the battery so that it isn't rattling loose inside the down tube. Another option would be to wrap it in foam so that it doesn't make any sound as it bounces around.
The Fox AX fork will only fit on the 55cm frame! It will touch the down tube on all other frame sizes. And it messes with the geo a lot, slackening the angles. It is not recommended.
Rear is 32 mm front is 15mm not including head.
We like the Arundel side loader cages that you can find in our online store here.
Also approved are Elite brand cages.
Other cages might rub the paint on your down tube, so please stick with these two brands.
With 4 or 5 sizes per model, 2 or three colors per model (colors don't all weigh the same), 6 different bike models and 5 different groups offered, not to mention dozens of possible changes in shocks, wheels, tires and seatposts, there are thousands of possibilities for complete bike weights. So we don't have them all recorded.
We have weighed a few bikes as we build them for our demo fleet. Send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org and we'll at least get close to your setup.
Bear in mind that we are a company of only 26 people with nearly zero turnover.
Staying small, lean and nimble is very important to us, so we rarely add staff.
Since we are a small company with about 26 employees, there's not a lot of money or bandwidth for sponsorships.
When we do get involved, we work with athletes through the local dealers who carry our bikes. Some athletes who have already have an established relationship with a shop actually get them to become dealers.
This is a good way for us to close the loop of sponsorship and dealers and Ibis to create sales.
If you are directly employed in the bike industry, send an inquiry with your place of work and title to email@example.com and he’ll get back to you.
We do have a discount program in place.
Ibis sells through dealers and will discount 10% for NICA athletes and coaches.
Ibis also requests that dealers discount the Coach or Athlete bike, but any discount ultimately given to you will be at the discretion of the dealer.
We strongly encourage dealers to take part in this program to get more kids and coaches on bikes and many will discount a further 10%.
This applies to Ibis dealers and non-dealers alike.
No, we do not.
We do know of a couple painters doing custom carbon work:
Joe's Carbon Solutions: faster turn-around but you’ll pay for it
Spyder Composites: more economical, but projects take some time
There’s a big list of painters here, but we haven’t vetted them.
And unfortunately, we can’t supply a frame to you in raw finish.
For all other questions, email firstname.lastname@example.org