Ibis frames and complete bikes are available from retailers all over the world.
For the US and Canada, head on over to the 'find a dealer' page and enter your zip code (or allow your browser to know your location) to find your closest retailer. If there's no one close, we have several options for authorized online sellers.
For international inquiries, type in the name of your country and if we have a distributor there, their name will pop up. If you don't have a distributor in your country, feel free to call us or contact us via email at firstname.lastname@example.org and we'll find a way for you to swing your leg over an Ibis.
Note that we do not sell our bikes directly to consumers. We sell through retailers only.
In non-COVID times, yes! However, our in house demo program is currently closed. When we deem it is safe again to have people visit, we will re-open the program.
If you're not familiar with the trails around Santa Cruz and would like a guide, we suggest our friends over at The Ride Guides.
Before the pandemic, we operated our demo fleet out of two big 'ol Mercedes Sprinter vans. Once we deem it is safe for our demo team to head back out into the public, we'll fire up the demo fleet again.
We are not currently offering industry discounts. Due to the pandemic, we have a huge backlog of orders. We want to take care of those orders first, before we reinstate our industry purchase program.
We are not currently offering NICA discounts. Due to the pandemic, we have a huge backlog of orders. We want to take care of those orders first, before we reinstate our NICA discount.
Your serial number is located under the bottom bracket of your frame. The serial number may also be located on your invoice/receipt or on the box the frame was shipped in. Please list all characters.
No, we do not. We do know of a couple painters doing custom carbon work:
Joe's Carbon Solutions: faster turn-around but you’ll pay for it.
Spyder Composites: more economical, but projects take some time.
There’s a big list of painters here, but we haven’t vetted them.
And unfortunately, we can’t supply a frame to you in raw finish.
We have found that different oval chainring manufacturers state that the max radius is 2t more than the stated chainring size (in other words, you can put a 32t oval on a bike with a 34t max chainring size), but in reality we have found that this can be greater than 2t, so the clearance with the frame may be an issue with some oval rings.
You can order any of our available lengths, which are
- Sml - 40mm
- Med/LG/XL - 50mm
- Sml - 50mm
- Med/Lg - 60mm
- XL - 70mm
- 49cm - 80 or 90mm
- 53cm/55cm - 100mm
- 58cm/61cm - 110mm
That’s a good question for your local bike shop when you go in to check out a bike. We also have a size chart at the bottom of the geometry section of each individual bike page. You can see the bike pages here. Click on the bike image, then geometry and scroll down just a touch.
- Remove the ports on both sides.
- Put a slight down bend on the housing and grease the end.
- Insert the housing through the port on the BB. It should slide right in, but you may need to give it twist to get the housing started.
- Use a pick to get the housing out of the port near the derailleur hanger.
- Make sure to slide the port back on the BB side and the hanger side.
- The bike came with a noodle (in the bag of stuff), you’ll need that.
- Feed a shift wire (an old one) through the noodle so the the cable nub is stuck in the open end (where housing would fit in)
- Feed the bare end of the cable through the cable stop from the inside so that it exits out the frame along the seat tube. This is the trickiest part, it helps to put a little kink in the end of the cable
- Pull the cable all the way out the port so that it is pulling the cable noodle into the cable stop. Use a fourth hand tool to pull on the cable and massage the noodle so that it is firmly placed in the cable stop (should be a snug fit). Once it is in place in the cable stop, leave it there!
- Once the noodle is in the cable stop, remove the cable and route your cable housing from the front shifter to the noodle (internal to the down tube). The end of the noodle should be accessible from the bolt-on door underneath the down tube.
- Feed your shift cable from the shifter, through your housing, into the noodle, and out to the front derailleur. If the cable catches on the cable stop upon exiting the noodle, it may help to add a kink to the end of the cable.
Here's what each wire length is intended to connect:
1200mm: Connects A junction box (at stem) to B junction box (inside down tube)
900mm: Connects B junction box to rear derailleur (routes through right chainstay)
2x400mm: connects right and left shifters to A junction box. The left shifter is not necessary, but we include it anyway in case someone wants right-up/left-down type shifting
350mm: Connects battery (zip-tied to down tube battery door) to B junction box.
Try to attach the B junction box to the battery so that it isn't rattling loose inside the down tube. Another option would be to wrap it in foam so that it doesn't make any sound as it bounces around.
The Fox AX fork will only fit on the 55cm frame! It will touch the down tube on all other frame sizes. And it messes with the geo a lot, slackening the angles. It is not recommended.
Rear is 32 mm front is 15mm not including head.
We like the Arundel side loader cages that you can find in our online store here.
Also approved are Elite brand cages.
Other cages might rub the paint on your down tube, so please stick with these two brands.
You can buy complete linkages on our store here.
You can buy Ripley bearing kits here.
We don’t carry bearings for the links on our other bikes, but you can find The enduro bearing kits for all of our suspension bikes here:
Select the box on the left that says Ibis, scroll to the bottom and hit 'Apply Filters', then your choices for bearing kits will fill to the right.
Note that we don't provide guidance on how to remove and replace the bearings, but in our instruction book, you can learn how to remove the swingarm and links.
We have a comprehensive guide to working on the Ibis hubs. You can download it here.
Ibis will replace your worn clevis or lower pivot bushings free of charge to the original owner for the life of the product. Bushings and o-rings are covered under this warranty. To order your bushings, fill out the Warranty Bushing Replacement Form. For DIY instructions on removal and installation of bushings watch our Disassembly/Assembly Tutorials.
Mounting Decals on Ibis Asymmetrical Rims:
- Mark the ends of the stock decal with masking tape
- Remove the old decal, if difficult to remove, carefully heat old decal with a hair dryer or heat gun
- Clean up any adhesive residue using isopropyl alcohol, let dry
- Apply new decal:
- When applying the wider decal to the wide side of the rim, start with the upper edge, near the spokes. Align the edge to the spokes and tack it down. Work outward burnishing the decal down with your thumbs, starting in the middle and working towards the ends.
- When applying to the short side, start at the edge of the rim and work up. Once again, get the starting edge tacked down, then work from the middle outwards.
- Remove masking tape
For the original symmetrical 741 and 941 decals we have a handy guide here.
For all other questions, email email@example.com