With its ultra versatile geometry and 1000g frame weight, the Hakka MX is just as happy crushing the local club ride as is it is jumping barriers or camping out.
It’s good to have options. With the Hakka MX, you can run road, cross and gravel friendly 700c wheels, or if you are into burlier backcountry exploration, go with 27.5/650b. With the Hakka MX, you don’t have to pick one tire option or the other. Our subtle sculpted chainstays give the frame clearance for up to 700 x 40c or 27.5 x 2.1” tires.
No matter what drivetrain you prefer, 1x, electronic, or 2x, the Hakka MX has you covered. The frame has internal cable routing provisions for every drivetrain on the market, plus a dropper post. We’ve even included a slick Di2 battery mount inside the downtube.
We’ve tried every bottom bracket under the sun and in the end, we haven’t found anything that’s more reliable than a threaded BB. Our Hakka features the T47 BB standard, which uses 30mm bearings enabling you to use the recent crop of lightweight cranksets. This is the best way to combine a threaded BB with 30mm spindle compatibility. It’s lightweight, quiet and durable, because no one likes a creaky bike.
The Hakka MX has flat-mount disc mounts and fits a 160mm rotor. The ENVE G Series Gravel fork has fender eyelets, internal cable routing and monster clearance for 700c x 50c or 27.5″ x 2.25″ tires. There’s also a removable rear fender mount on the seat stays.
We offer two groups (Rival1 and Shimano GRX), two wheel sizes (700 or 27.5″), one more than two color options (Bone White/Teal, Coal or Fireball), two rim material options (carbon or aluminum) and this image was too pretty not to include.
The Hakka comes in five frame sizes: 49, 53, 55, 58, 61
Chris McNally did the Ramble Ride Asheville last October on the unreleased at that time Hakka MX. Along with it, Chris did a little travelog of the adventure.
Hakka MX Geometry
Our most versatile bike is the Hakka MX.
Geometry Hakka MX
| Nominal Size c-t | 49 | 53 | 55 | 58 | 61 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Seat Tube Length | A | 455 17.9 | 525 20.7 | 550 21.7 | 575 22.6 | 605 23.8 |
| Top Tube Length | B | 520 20.5 | 540 21.3 | 550 21.7 | 570 22.4 | 590 23.2 |
| Head Tube Length | C | 110 4.3 | 135 5.3 | 155 6.1 | 175 6.9 | 195 7.7 |
| Chainstay Length | D | 430 16.9 | 430 16.9 | 430 16.9 | 430 16.9 | 430 16.9 |
| Seat Tube Angle | E | 74.5° 74.5° | 73.5° 73.5° | 73.5° 73.5° | 73.5° 73.5° | 73.5° 73.5° |
| Head Tube Angle | F | 70.5° 70.5° | 71.5° 71.5° | 72° 72° | 72° 72° | 72° 72° |
| Wheelbase | G | 1007 39.6 | 1011 39.8 | 1021 40.2 | 1037 40.8 | 1057 41.6 |
| Stack | 532 20.9 | 560 22 | 580 22.8 | 599 23.6 | 616 24.3 | |
| Reach | 370 14.6 | 373 14.7 | 382 15 | 391 15.4 | 406 16 | |
| Bottom Bracket Drop | 70 2.8 | 70 2.8 | 70 2.8 | 70 2.8 | 70 2.8 | |
| Standover Height | 729 28.7 | 785 30.9 | 802 31.6 | 827 32.6 | 853 33.6 |
Sizing Guide (Rider Height)
| Frame Material | Carbon fiber monocoque |
| Frame Weight | 1000g |
| Wheel Size | 700c or 650b/27.5" |
| Rear Axle | 142mm x 12mm thru-axle |
| Front Axle | 100mm x 12mm thru-axle |
| Seatpost Diameter | 31.6mm / Dropper Post Compatible |
| Front Brake | Flat-mount front disc, 160mm rotor (some images show post mount) |
| Rear Brake | Flat-mount rear disc, 160mm rotor |
| Chainstay Length | 430mm |
| Bottom Bracket | T47 Threaded Bottom Bracket |
| Tapered Headtube | IS 41/28.6 upper, IS 52/40 lower |
| Drivetrain | 1X or 2X compatible, Di2 compatible, up to 48t 1X chainring, 34t minimum |
| Front Derailleur Spec | 34.9mm clamp, bottom pull |
| Colors | Bone White/Teal, Coal or Fireball |
| Sizes | 49 / 53 / 55 / 58 / 61 |
| Frame Warranty | 7 Years |
Hakka MX Specific FAQs
All our manuals are available here.
The Hakka can accommodate up to a 700c x 40c or a 27.5” x 2.1”.
The max single chainring for the Hakka MX is a 48t. The minimum is a 34t. The Hakka is also compatible with the following double chainring combinations: 53/39, 50/34, 46/36, 52/36. The 34t inner ring on a 50/34 is the smallest we recommend. Any smaller may cause chain contact on the underside of the chainstay.
- The bike came with a noodle (in the bag of stuff), you’ll need that.
- Feed a shift wire (an old one) through the noodle so the the cable nub is stuck in the open end (where housing would fit in)
- Feed the bare end of the cable through the cable stop from the inside so that it exits out the frame along the seat tube. This is the trickiest part, it helps to put a little kink in the end of the cable
- Pull the cable all the way out the port so that it is pulling the cable noodle into the cable stop. Use a fourth hand tool to pull on the cable and massage the noodle so that it is firmly placed in the cable stop (should be a snug fit). Once it is in place in the cable stop, leave it there!
- Once the noodle is in the cable stop, remove the cable and route your cable housing from the front shifter to the noodle (internal to the down tube). The end of the noodle should be accessible from the bolt-on door underneath the down tube.
- Feed your shift cable from the shifter, through your housing, into the noodle, and out to the front derailleur. If the cable catches on the cable stop upon exiting the noodle, it may help to add a kink to the end of the cable.
There are a number of power meters that fit on the Hakka from Quarq, Stages and SRM (note that we have not found any left crank arm power meters that clear the chainstay, but there are numerous right side options).
For SRAM (Quarq) power meters, they have 24mm spindle options and DUB spindle options.
The best setup is this power meter:
https://www.quarq.com/product/sram-red-axs-power-meter-spider-107bcd/
With either of these cranksets:
(DUB Spindle) https://www.quarq.com/product/quarq-dzero-dub-crank-arm-assembly/
(24mm spindle) https://www.quarq.com/product/sram-red-crankarm-assembly/
And these chainrings (1x and 2x options available):
1x: https://www.quarq.com/product/x-sync-road-chainrings/
2x: https://www.quarq.com/product/sram-force-chainrings/
And any 24mm SRAM-compatible BB (see our BB list on the website)
https://assets-ibiscycles-com.s3.amazonaws.com/files/Setup-Guides/Hakka_T47_BBs.pdf
For Stages:
Both the Ultegra and Dura Ace 2X right-side cranksets should work fine
https://store.stagescycling.com/Single-Sided-Power-Meters
Want to run a 1X with the Stages meter? Wolf Tooth has a solution:
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/gravel-cyclocross-road/products/110-bcd-asymmetric-4-bolt-for-shimano-cranks
But it requires a little filing to fit these above cranks:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0230/9291/files/DA_9100_R8000_ring.pdf?1208389292880852956
You can use any Shimano 24mm-compatible BB listed on our website. The Praxis BB is highly recommended.
For SRM:
Any of SRMs crank-based power meters will fit. To assure bottom bracket compatibility, we recommend meters based on the SRAM cranksets:
http://www.srm.de/products/srm-powermeter/sram-road/
Here's what each wire length is intended to connect:
1200mm: Connects A junction box (at stem) to B junction box (inside down tube)
900mm: Connects B junction box to rear derailleur (routes through right chainstay)
2x400mm: connects right and left shifters to A junction box. The left shifter is not necessary, but we include it anyway in case someone wants right-up/left-down type shifting
350mm: Connects battery (zip-tied to down tube battery door) to B junction box.
Try to attach the B junction box to the battery so that it isn't rattling loose inside the down tube. Another option would be to wrap it in foam so that it doesn't make any sound as it bounces around.
We do not recommend installing a Fox AX fork on the Hakka, as it significantly alters the geometry.
The Fox AX fork will only fit on the 55cm frame! It will touch the down tube on all other frame sizes. And it messes with the geo a lot, slackening the angles. It is not recommended.
You can find torque specs for the Hakka MX in the tab on the right.
170mm crank on 49cm
172.5mm crank on 53cm, 55cm and 58cm
175mm crank on 61cm
80mm or 90mm stem on the 49cm
100mm stem on the 53cm and 55cm
110mm stem on the 58cm and 61cm
Note: you may request changing any of these when ordering your bike.
To plug the holes where the fender eyelets are, use M4x0.7 bolts. Same size goes for the hand job mount on the seat stay if you want to remove that. We use 10mm long button head screws to fill the holes when there's no part mounted.
General FAQs
To see our general FAQs click here.
| Hardware | Torque Spec (Nm) | Thread Treatment / Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cable Port | 2 | Grease |
| Rear Brake Caliper | 6 | Loctite 243 |
| Seat Binder | 5 | Ti anti-seize |
| Derailleur Hanger Bolt | 5 | Grease |
| Bushings | Apply Slick Honey (grease) to all bushings during reassembly. | |
| Hexle Rear Axle | There is not a numerical torque figure for the Hexle. We recommend tightening the 5mm with your multi tool that you carry with you. This way you’ll be able to remove it in case of a flat out on a ride. |
Hakka MX Gallery
